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Here Come the Brides!

'Tis the season to tie the knot. In China, the more the merrier.

In the city of Sanya, on the southern tip of Hainan Island, hundreds of couples participated in the 11th annual Tianyahaijiao International Wedding Festival, flocking to the country's most beautiful beach for a piggyback "race" to reaffirm their love. (It is also one of many promotional events leading up to the Beijing Olympics in 2008.) Tianyahaijiao, the name of the beach, is also a proverb meaning "To the end of the earth and corner of the sea." The American equivalent? "Till death do us part."

Here Come the Brides!

'Tis the season to tie the knot. In China, the more the merrier.

In the city of Sanya, on the southern tip of Hainan Island, hundreds of couples participated in the 11th annual Tianyahaijiao International Wedding Festival, flocking to the country's most beautiful beach for a piggyback "race" to reaffirm their love. (It is also one of many promotional events leading up to the Beijing Olympics in 2008.) Tianyahaijiao, the name of the beach, is also a proverb meaning "To the end of the earth and corner of the sea." The American equivalent? "Till death do us part."

What Some Women Will Do for Beauty

WHY IT'S DONE: About 50 percent of Pacific Asians do not have an upper-eyelid crease. For those who do, the crease falls about 7 mm above the lashline, whereas for Caucasians, the crease falls about 11 mm above it.

HOW IT WORKS: During the most popular version of this outpatient procedure, a crescent-shaped incision is made along the new crease line, and a small amount of skin, tissue, and fat on the upper eyelid is cut away. When the two sides are sutured back together, the incision is hidden under the newly created crease.

PROCEDURE LENGTH: Approximately one hour

RECOVERY TIME: Sutures are removed after about a week. Bruising and swelling usually subside after a month.

COST: $2500 to $5000

ORIGIN: 19th-century Japan. The popularity of the procedure jumps whenever there was a significant Western presence in Asia — for example, during the Korean War.

HOW COMMON: Almost 300,000 Asians in the U.S. had the surgery in 2006.

What Some Women Will Do for Beauty

WHY IT'S DONE: About 50 percent of Pacific Asians do not have an upper-eyelid crease. For those who do, the crease falls about 7 mm above the lashline, whereas for Caucasians, the crease falls about 11 mm above it.

HOW IT WORKS: During the most popular version of this outpatient procedure, a crescent-shaped incision is made along the new crease line, and a small amount of skin, tissue, and fat on the upper eyelid is cut away. When the two sides are sutured back together, the incision is hidden under the newly created crease.

The Kite Makers of Kabul

In The Kite Runner, the film adaptation of Khaled Hosseini's best-selling path-to-manhood tale, it's the creations of renowned local kite maker Noor Agha that fill the sky. Banned during Taliban rule, kite flying — and the more combative kite dueling — is once again Afghanistan's national passion, so Agha's business was already booming. But when DreamWorks came calling, he had to recruit the women in his family to learn this traditionally male craft.

They all work together in one room. That includes both his wives: Marzia, who makes the bold graphics of each kite into completely unique patchwork patterns, and Farida, who completes the tails and imprints Agha's name and signature scorpion image.

The two wives, working and raising their combined 11 children, are the collaboration that holds the whole kite-making operation together — maybe even more than the family's trademark secret glue.

The Kite Makers of Kabul

In The Kite Runner, the film adaptation of Khaled Hosseini's best-selling path-to-manhood tale, it's the creations of renowned local kite maker Noor Agha that fill the sky. Banned during Taliban rule, kite flying — and the more combative kite dueling — is once again Afghanistan's national passion, so Agha's business was already booming. But when DreamWorks came calling, he had to recruit the women in his family to learn this traditionally male craft.

They all work together in one room. That includes both his wives: Marzia, who makes the bold graphics of each kite into completely unique patchwork patterns, and Farida, who completes the tails and imprints Agha's name and signature scorpion image.

The two wives, working and raising their combined 11 children, are the collaboration that holds the whole kite-making operation together — maybe even more than the family's trademark secret glue.

The Best Boutique in Town

Ghazni was once a dazzling capital of the Turkish empire; now it’s a decaying mud-walled city. Located on the trade route between Kabul and Kandahar, one of the most dangerous highways in Afghanistan, the region is known for frequent roadside bombs, air strikes, and kidnappings. Then there’s the weather: extreme droughts, followed by snowstorms and heavy flooding. But even in Ghazni, the occasional pretty thing blooms. Here, dresses hang in the window of a tailor shop, a sign of the small pleasures daily life still holds — in spite of everything.

The Best Boutique in Town

Ghazni was once a dazzling capital of the Turkish empire; now it’s a decaying mud-walled city. Located on the trade route between Kabul and Kandahar, one of the most dangerous highways in Afghanistan, the region is known for frequent roadside bombs, air strikes, and kidnappings. Then there’s the weather: extreme droughts, followed by snowstorms and heavy flooding. But even in Ghazni, the occasional pretty thing blooms. Here, dresses hang in the window of a tailor shop, a sign of the small pleasures daily life still holds — in spite of everything.

Need a Life? Rent One

For the millions of people in Japan who spend too much time at work to have pets, a social life, or a partner, help is at hand.

It started with Tokyo's cat cafĂ©s, where customers can sit around and sip coffee—and also rent a cat, for 10 bucks an hour. With Japan's economy in deep recession, cuddles are clearly in demand; customers ranging from schoolgirls to engineers are flocking to businesses such as Neko no Mise ("Cat Store"). Clients receive a "menu" of the felines available for petting; balls of wool and plastic mice are complimentary.

The cat cafĂ©s have become so popular that more than 150 businesses have sprung up to offer animals for hire—ferrets, turtles, squirrels, monkeys--on an hourly, weekly, or even monthly basis, if you want to bring the critter home. Dogs are predictably popular, but for those with a smaller apartment and budget, beetles are an option.

One agency has taken the idea of renting whatever makes your life complete a step further. Hagemashi Tai ("I Want to Cheer Up Limited") rents out relatives. Whether it's for a wedding or funeral, you can choose the perfect person to accompany you, rather than go solo. The agency also offers a service to single mothers seeking a male role model for their children. The "father" will attend school events, take the kid to the park, help with homework. Kikue Shimizu, 37, has a weekly arrangement with just such a rent-a-dad. "My two boys are growing up without a father figure in their lives," she says. "I need someone who can talk to them about their education, their futures."

To be sure, the tradition of paying someone to be nice to you has a long history in Japan, dating back to the dawn of the geisha. Consequently, there's no stigma attached to the fact that the so-called cousin at your side is clocking up the yen by the hour.

Need a Life? Rent One

For the millions of people in Japan who spend too much time at work to have pets, a social life, or a partner, help is at hand.

It started with Tokyo's cat cafĂ©s, where customers can sit around and sip coffee—and also rent a cat, for 10 bucks an hour. With Japan's economy in deep recession, cuddles are clearly in demand; customers ranging from schoolgirls to engineers are flocking to businesses such as Neko no Mise ("Cat Store"). Clients receive a "menu" of the felines available for petting; balls of wool and plastic mice are complimentary.

The cat cafĂ©s have become so popular that more than 150 businesses have sprung up to offer animals for hire—ferrets, turtles, squirrels, monkeys--on an hourly, weekly, or even monthly basis, if you want to bring the critter home. Dogs are predictably popular, but for those with a smaller apartment and budget, beetles are an option.

Girls Gone Geeky

Professional video-game tournaments—traditionally the province of the 300-pound dorky guy next door—are starting to look more like a Spice Girls show, thanks to female teams like the Frag Dolls. The Dolls are one of a handful of girl groups going head-to-head with the guys at Major League Gaming contests. The question: Did we really need to bust into this male bastion?

Some say yes: An estimated 94 percent of teen girls now play video games—it's part of the culture, like it or not. And Major League Gaming is on a roll, boasting thousands of competitors and a content deal with ESPN; the top prize at events can reach $100,000. For players like the Frag Dolls—who go by names such as Brookelyn, Phoenix, Psyche, and Rhoulette—gaming is a career opportunity; they get paid by a software company to compete in tournaments, work the booths at trade shows, and do press stunts, like teaching Kim Kardashian how to play Nintendo Wii.

It's not a bad gig for young women such as Brookelyn (Brooke Hattabaugh, 28). Before joining the Dolls, she was a shy, depressed high-school student who had burned down her mother's Kansas home while frying a chicken patty. The Frag Dolls forced her out of her shell. (After the Dolls? She wants to write children's books.)

Of course, not everyone's thrilled about the tarting up of the game world. Male bloggers gripe that women can't play in the NFL or NBA, so why are they allowed in Major League Gaming? But other guys dig it. At a recent tourney in Texas, Brookelyn, clad in a black corset, with a pair of diving doves tattoos on her shoulder, was swarmed by an army of preteen worshippers. "Can I get a picture?" one asked. "My buddy'll be so jealous." Indeed. Some boys even like to brag that they've made out with Brookelyn and her gal pals. Dream on, dudes.

Girls Gone Geeky

Professional video-game tournaments—traditionally the province of the 300-pound dorky guy next door—are starting to look more like a Spice Girls show, thanks to female teams like the Frag Dolls. The Dolls are one of a handful of girl groups going head-to-head with the guys at Major League Gaming contests. The question: Did we really need to bust into this male bastion?

Some say yes: An estimated 94 percent of teen girls now play video games—it's part of the culture, like it or not. And Major League Gaming is on a roll, boasting thousands of competitors and a content deal with ESPN; the top prize at events can reach $100,000. For players like the Frag Dolls—who go by names such as Brookelyn, Phoenix, Psyche, and Rhoulette—gaming is a career opportunity; they get paid by a software company to compete in tournaments, work the booths at trade shows, and do press stunts, like teaching Kim Kardashian how to play Nintendo Wii.

Christy Turlington Burns: Postcard from Tanzania

The first time I saw Africa, I was doing a shoot for a British fashion magazine on a small island off the coast of Mombasa, the Kenyan port city. While the trip was extremely lovely and memorable, it wasn’t quite the Africa I had anticipated. So the following year, I returned, this time to Tanzania. On the flight over, I remember looking out at Mount Kilimanjaro from my airplane window and promising myself: The next time I come back, I will climb that mountain.

That was nearly 20 years ago. Over the years, I did make it back to sub-Saharan Africa several times, spending time in Madagascar, Swaziland, South Africa. I returned to Tanzania and Kenya and stayed with a friend who lived in the Masai Mara, beside a river packed with wild hippos. And yes, I did climb Mt. Kilimanjaro. This year, I decided to make the journey again, to Tanzania—but with a much different purpose. As an advocate for maternal health, I wanted to help ensure that mothers live to see their children grow up.

Exact numbers are hard to come by, but recent surveys suggest that for every 100,000 babies born in Tanzania, nearly 1000 mothers lose their lives in childbirth. Tanzania recognizes the magnitude of the problem; the country’s president, Jakaya Mrisho Kikwete, says he is committed to reducing maternal mortality by 75 percent by the year 2015. With the help of development partners like the World Bank and the Swiss government, President Kikwete plans to further educate hundreds of doctors, nurses, and midwives over the next 10 years, and train clinicians to perform emergency services like C-sections.

Christy Turlington Burns: Postcard from Tanzania

The first time I saw Africa, I was doing a shoot for a British fashion magazine on a small island off the coast of Mombasa, the Kenyan port city. While the trip was extremely lovely and memorable, it wasn’t quite the Africa I had anticipated. So the following year, I returned, this time to Tanzania. On the flight over, I remember looking out at Mount Kilimanjaro from my airplane window and promising myself: The next time I come back, I will climb that mountain.

That was nearly 20 years ago. Over the years, I did make it back to sub-Saharan Africa several times, spending time in Madagascar, Swaziland, South Africa. I returned to Tanzania and Kenya and stayed with a friend who lived in the Masai Mara, beside a river packed with wild hippos. And yes, I did climb Mt. Kilimanjaro. This year, I decided to make the journey again, to Tanzania—but with a much different purpose. As an advocate for maternal health, I wanted to help ensure that mothers live to see their children grow up.

Underneath the Burka

Joumana Haddad is fed up with the notion that all Arab women are silent, submissive, and hopelessly oppressed. The Lebanese poet, author, and publisher of an erotic magazine lets loose in her new book, I Killed Scheherazade (in reference to the man-pleasing heroine of Arabian Nights). We checked in with the Carrie Bradshaw of Beirut.
What's the biggest sexual taboo in the Arab world?
Having sex before marriage. The honor of the whole Arab world lies between the Arab woman's legs. It's really heavy. I don't know how she can walk. There's so much hypocrisy, like the practice of "hymenoplasty" — getting your "virginity" back before getting married. So many women here do that. They don't think they have a right to a sexual life. They have sex in secret, then go and become virgins again — I'm talking about Muslims and Christians alike. I have acquaintances who have done that. What kind of man needs this illusion to be the first in order to feel strong?

In the West, men aren't so eager to find a virgin.
Right. Who would want a virgin? In Islam, some say that if you're a good Muslim, a good man, you'll be rewarded with 72 virgins when you die. Who would want 72 virgins? That sounds like a lot of work. That's the opposite of a reward.
What are other sexual taboos in Arab society?
Homosexuality is very discriminated against. And talking about sex — you cannot discuss it in the open. But polygamy is not a taboo. Neither is pedophilia. Shouldn't that be a taboo?
Your book notes that there are more than 50 million child brides in the world, mostly in Muslim countries. Why do some men want to marry a child?
I think it has a lot to do with low self-esteem. They want to pick the fruit as soon as it becomes ready. But it's also the responsibility of mothers and fathers who agree on marrying their daughters at that age.
You argue that Arab women are liberated. But then we read that a Saudi woman is lashed for the "crime" of being raped.
I'm not trying to present a different reality. The stories are true. I try to promote the good examples — beyond the sad stories that make the news in the West — to show that there's another Arab woman out there.
Is it true that men in conservative countries watch the most porn?
You saw the reports of Osama bin Laden having a stash of porn. Even if this is not true, how many people are like that in the Arab world? How many people preach about being religious, yet in secret they have these perverse practices because they are not able to have a healthy sex life? This is when you get sick — when you're not allowed to live your life normally. You become obsessed with everything that is forbidden. The most Googled word in Arabic is sex.
We hear and read stories of Arab women wearing sexy lingerie under the burka. Is that a fair representation?
It is exaggerated. Some Western men like to imagine a sexy, hot creature under that black veil. Sometimes there is, sometimes there isn't.
You grew up in a conservative Christian family in Beirut. How did you become so outspoken about sex?
It started when I was 12, when I read a book from the top shelf of my father's library — by the Marquis de Sade.
You're 40 now, a married mother of two, and you run the erotic magazine Jasad (Body). How do you get away with that job in Beirut?
When I started it, it was as if hell's doors opened in front of me. I received serious threats. It's also a financial challenge: I haven't had one paid advertisement since I started it two years ago.
Is the "Arab Spring" really bringing about change for women?
Nothing has changed. The women we see protesting get pushed aside after the revolution, at the moment of real change. It's scandalous. The real thing that makes me angry is that there aren't enough angry people in the world.

Underneath the Burka

Joumana Haddad is fed up with the notion that all Arab women are silent, submissive, and hopelessly oppressed. The Lebanese poet, author, and publisher of an erotic magazine lets loose in her new book, I Killed Scheherazade (in reference to the man-pleasing heroine of Arabian Nights). We checked in with the Carrie Bradshaw of Beirut.
What's the biggest sexual taboo in the Arab world?
Having sex before marriage. The honor of the whole Arab world lies between the Arab woman's legs. It's really heavy. I don't know how she can walk. There's so much hypocrisy, like the practice of "hymenoplasty" — getting your "virginity" back before getting married. So many women here do that. They don't think they have a right to a sexual life. They have sex in secret, then go and become virgins again — I'm talking about Muslims and Christians alike. I have acquaintances who have done that. What kind of man needs this illusion to be the first in order to feel strong?

From the Front Lines of Libya


Lynsey Addario stands in front of a roomful of journalists at the Mandarin Oriental in New York City. She has just received an award from the Overseas Press Club for her photojournalism, and she's having a hard time getting through her acceptance speech. Two of her friends and fellow photographers, Tim Hetherington and Chris Hondros, were killed a week earlier during a mortar attack in Libya. The moment Addario says their names, her face crumples, and she begins to cry.
Addario barely got out of Libya alive herself. Held captive for six days in March, she and three other journalists, on assignment for The New York Times, endured intense physical and psychological abuse. The ordeal began when Libyan soldiers detained the journalists at a checkpoint near a rebel-held town of Ajdabiya, beating them, forcing them to their knees, and ordering them to lie facedown on the ground — to be shot. The journalists' lives were spared that day, but the week that followed brought beatings, sexual aggression, and threats of murder. Bound and often blindfolded, they were moved from truck to truck, before finally getting released amid international pressure.

Addario, a 37-year-old Connecticut native, certainly knows the risks of her profession: For the past 15 years, she has traveled the world covering conflict and women's issues for publications such as National Geographic, Time, and Newsweek, in addition to the Times. In 2004, she was held captive by gunmen for eight hours in Iraq. In 2009, while on assignment in Pakistan, her collarbone was broken in a car accident when the driver fell asleep at the wheel, killing himself in the process. We talked to Addario as well as her husband, Paul de Bendern, a Reuters bureau chief in New Delhi, India, where the couple is currently based, about how they got through the latest ordeal — and what drives them to report from war zones.
Lynsey, you were lying facedown on the ground with your colleagues when you heard a Libyan soldier say: "Shoot them." What goes through your mind when you think you will be killed?
Lynsey Addario: For me, I just pray. And I'm not very religious at all — I was raised Catholic, but probably haven't gone to church since my Holy Communion, when I was about 6 or 7. I think that there's nothing you can do when you're in that situation, so for me, I go into this sort of altered state, almost begging: Please. Please. Please. You can't do anything. You really can't. So you just hope that they don't kill you.
During your captivity, soldiers were alternately groping your breasts and punching you in the face. At one point, a soldier caressed your head while threatening to kill you. How did you keep your sanity?
Lynsey: I was lucky because there were four of us. We were together, and that really helped tremendously in terms of dealing with things along the way. There were many times when we weren't allowed to speak to each other, but just the fact that we knew the other people were present was a big help. When we could talk, we said just a few words like, "We'll get through this. You have people at home who love you. Don't worry, we'll be fine." We constantly were reassuring ourselves, and each other.
Did you think, If I get out of here alive, there's something I must do — or did you think, I just need to get out of here alive?
Lynsey: I was thinking I need to get out of here alive. I was also thinking, Maybe it's time to get pregnant. I was thinking I've had a lot of close calls, and maybe this is a sign.
Paul, what did you do when you heard Lynsey had been captured? How do you keep your thoughts from going to the darkest place?
Paul de Bendern: I've been a journalist for Reuters for about 16 years, living in North Africa, Latin America, Europe, and now in Asia. So I've been in difficult situations and have had to make decisions about reporters in harm's way. But of course it's a very different thing when it's the person you love most in the world. The first moment you realize something is wrong, everything goes through your mind: What happens now? Am I ever going to see her again? There's a series of worst-case scenarios. The first night I had quite a few whiskeys, but that didn't really help. Then it was continuous calls — to the Times, to colleagues on the ground in Libya. I tried to keep my mind busy. I focused on getting her home. I tried to keep it together — it doesn't help to break down and completely become a basket case. After 24 hours, when no bodies had been found, I knew it was likely that they were alive. Most likely the government had taken them, because the it wasn't in the rebels' interest. But this was not confirmed for several days, and it felt like years.
Lynsey, when soldiers were groping you, you knew not to fight back, but to plead for mercy. How did you know to do that?
Lynsey: I've worked for over 11 years in the Muslim world, and the one thing that I feel like I've learned — who's to say if it's true or not true, it's just my experience — is that men don't like to see really strong, aggressive women in that area of the world. So I think that when I elicited the most sympathy, and when they did in fact stop, was when I was crying and pleading. I didn't even try and scream and kick, because that's never worked for me in that part of the world. Also I know that it's against Islam to touch another man's wife, so if I said, "Look, I have a husband. You are Muslim," those are things that I felt would garner more sympathy and support to leave me alone.
Your instincts might have helped keep you alive.
Lynsey: I don't know; I think a lot of it also is luck. At the end of the day, the fact that we weren't killed in the crossfire in the first 15 minutes or the first eight hours when they just held us on the front lines, tied up, it's pretty miraculous that none of us were killed.
Paul, at one point you went on CNN to appeal to the Qaddafi regime.
Paul: Yes, you have to be careful what you say publicly, but a friend of mine at CNN said, "Look, the Qaddafi regime is weird and unpredictable, but they care about America and this kind of stuff — if you do a personal appeal, it can be very powerful." It was very difficult to do and very emotional. I didn't know if I could deal with it.
Paul, you met Lynsey in Tunisia after her release. What was it like to be reunited?
Paul: I met her at the airport in Tunis. No one realized how bad it had been — the Times had warned me that they had suffered beatings and gropings, but we didn't know yet the full extent of it. When I saw her, I ran up to her, kissed her and hugged her. It was very emotional. But I think both of us were kind of in a state of shock. It wasn't like a complete breakdown when we saw each other. It's not like the movies, where it's all dramatic. We went to the hotel that night and got champagne and sat on the balcony, and rested. Over the days and weeks it's something we digested. I think we still are.
Lynsey, when you were freed, the blogosphere started buzzing with comments about how women shouldn't be covering war — and the Times shouldn't have sent you there.
Lynsey: Mortars and artillery don't discriminate against gender. We all saw what happened to Tim and Chris. Journalists dedicate their lives to covering war — they make many personal sacrifices, and it's not something that's gender-based. In a place like Libya where there's heavy fighting, it doesn't matter if you're a man or a woman.
But there are stories where gender makes a difference, in a good way…
Lynsey: Absolutely, for example when I'm working on women's stories in a Muslim country. In a place like Afghanistan where the society is completely segregated, women have access to women. Men cannot always photograph women and cannot get the access that I get.
Paul: When you hear that women shouldn't cover this or that, it's a joke. When you look at some of the stories Lynsey has covered — maternal mortality in Sierra Leone, burn victims in Afghanistan — do you think a guy who's a macho photojournalist is gonna make that happen? No. It is very important that these stories are communicated. And reporting these stories, this is not easy stuff. Lynsey is helping people understand that.

From the Front Lines of Libya


Lynsey Addario stands in front of a roomful of journalists at the Mandarin Oriental in New York City. She has just received an award from the Overseas Press Club for her photojournalism, and she's having a hard time getting through her acceptance speech. Two of her friends and fellow photographers, Tim Hetherington and Chris Hondros, were killed a week earlier during a mortar attack in Libya. The moment Addario says their names, her face crumples, and she begins to cry.
Addario barely got out of Libya alive herself. Held captive for six days in March, she and three other journalists, on assignment for The New York Times, endured intense physical and psychological abuse. The ordeal began when Libyan soldiers detained the journalists at a checkpoint near a rebel-held town of Ajdabiya, beating them, forcing them to their knees, and ordering them to lie facedown on the ground — to be shot. The journalists' lives were spared that day, but the week that followed brought beatings, sexual aggression, and threats of murder. Bound and often blindfolded, they were moved from truck to truck, before finally getting released amid international pressure.

Why Are These Women in Jail?

High in the Hindu Kush Mountains, a 16-year-old girl named Badia used to lie awake at night, sharing a wool blanket with her newborn daughter and 40-year-old husband. She had become this man's bride at age 12. Almost every day after their wedding, he had beaten her with the broom she used to sweep the dirt floor. "A healthy boy will never come from such a worthless girl," he would say. It was Badia's fault that he had to take a second wife, he announced. She was lucky he was a kind man: No one in the village would have condemned him for killing her, and her child.
Welcome to Afghanistan, one of the worst places on earth for women.
Badia eventually escaped, sort of. One snowy night, the shivering teenager slipped from her bed, baby pressed to her chest. Then she ran, barefoot, up a footpath as old as Genghis Khan. But she didn't get far. She got sent to prison, convicted of the "moral crime" of leaving her husband's home without his permission. She recounts her story while staring at a concrete wall surrounding the women's prison in remote Nangarhar Province. "I'm a criminal in my village," she says, stroking the raven hair of her daughter, now 2. Together, mother and child have served two years of their 10-year sentence.

In Afghanistan, the most commonly practiced form of judicial "due process" simply requires two men to accuse a woman of a crime. Case closed. No burden of proof or defense. A group of respected male elders hands down the sentence. (Men also appear before this council, or jirga, but usually to settle debts or property disputes. Their wives and daughters are often traded and enslaved to resolve such debts.) For women, typical "moral crimes" punishable by prison—or death—include refusing to marry a rapist, having an affair (or simply getting accused of having an affair), and murder-by-proxy, wherein a male family member kills someone and assigns the prison sentence to a female.
An estimated 860 women are currently behind bars in the country, along with 620 girls between the ages of 12 and 17, and 280 children, according to the U.S. State Department and the Corrections System Support Program, or CSSP, a private U.S. contractor tasked with reforming Afghan prisons. Ninety-five percent of these women are convicted of "moral crimes."
Kinah, 21, is a striking beauty with the black-coffee eyes of many in Balkh Province. She sits in one of two rooms that imprison 40 women and 18 children, rocking her 6-month-old daughter, who is nestled in a sheet tied to a chair and bedpost. At age 6, Kinah was promised in marriage to a 40-year-old man, but at 16, she ran away, marrying a young man she loved. She is now a convicted adulteress and widow, as her former fiancé tracked her down and shot her husband. The murderer was sentenced to 10 years; Kinah was sentenced to 12. The room echoes incessantly with children's coughing. The courtyard offers the only escape, where tents serve as shelter from below-freezing temperatures. "Sometimes we have no milk for the children," Kinah says, holding her baby close.
Mercifully, CSSP and a handful of nonprofit groups such as the Afghan Women's Education Center, or AWEC, are working to improve imprisoned women and children's lives. CSSP works in eight of the country's 34 provinces, repairing crumbling buildings, raising operating standards, and training Afghan wardens. Says Rita Thomas, a CSSP on-site adviser, "What's most heartbreaking are the girls." When funds allow, nonprofits will provide literacy classes, emergency medical services, and counseling.
Mike Runnells, CSSP director in Kabul, says the group plans to be in every district by the end of 2011. He admits that these intentions could prove difficult where insurgents still rule with impunity, adding, "Our first priority is the safety of our workers." One adviser was killed in 2007, when her vehicle was targeted in a suicide bombing.
For aid groups in the region, yearly budgets are slim. These groups stay afloat thanks to donations, intermittent federal grants, and iron-willed directors who often work without salaries. But you can help.

Why Are These Women in Jail?

High in the Hindu Kush Mountains, a 16-year-old girl named Badia used to lie awake at night, sharing a wool blanket with her newborn daughter and 40-year-old husband. She had become this man's bride at age 12. Almost every day after their wedding, he had beaten her with the broom she used to sweep the dirt floor. "A healthy boy will never come from such a worthless girl," he would say. It was Badia's fault that he had to take a second wife, he announced. She was lucky he was a kind man: No one in the village would have condemned him for killing her, and her child.
Welcome to Afghanistan, one of the worst places on earth for women.
Badia eventually escaped, sort of. One snowy night, the shivering teenager slipped from her bed, baby pressed to her chest. Then she ran, barefoot, up a footpath as old as Genghis Khan. But she didn't get far. She got sent to prison, convicted of the "moral crime" of leaving her husband's home without his permission. She recounts her story while staring at a concrete wall surrounding the women's prison in remote Nangarhar Province. "I'm a criminal in my village," she says, stroking the raven hair of her daughter, now 2. Together, mother and child have served two years of their 10-year sentence.
 
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